Have you ever planned a trip where you were bringing your children “home to a place [they’ve] never been before?” John Denver’s lyrics about The Centennial State perfectly describe this adventure. While I’m a lifelong Michigander, Colorado has always held a special place in my heart. In particular, the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs, located in Nathrop, CO, were owned and operated by the family for over 40 years. I wanted my children to experience this wonderful place where so many generations lived before.
My father wrote an account of the area in the late 1950s, documenting the Ute Indians early use of the healing waters, the arrival of a resourceful pioneer named Nachtrieb in 1859 (the town originally carried his name but was shortened to Nathrop for ease of spelling), through the silver and gold boom, and later economic devastation of the Great Depression. My grandparents, George and Margaret Stewart Roche, and great-grandparents, George and Dessa Hagee Roche, purchased the Hot Springs in 1944. I’m fortunate to still retain copies of the out-of-print historical pamphlet, plus photos and personal accounts from this time. My father fondly recalled those first few years rebuilding:
“When I was nine years old, we purchased a completely run-down lodge and hot springs in Chalk Creek Gulch, near Buena Vista. We moved to the Hot Springs when my little sister, Peggy, was six weeks old, virtually without money and facing a mountain of work. The roof leaked in every room of the lodge**, functioning plumbing was non-existent, electricity had not yet come to the valley, wood had to be cut for the fireplace which heated the lodge (though the heat radiating from the hot springs beneath the lodge made a huge difference in Colorado winters). The series of cars we drove were prewar and VERY high mileage, requiring countless hours of maintenance. We needed the transportation badly, being a small mountain valley 10 miles from the nearest town and five miles from the 8 grades, one room schoolhouse I attended (my dad picked up several other kids who lived in the gulch and acted as the school bus in our family car). Actually, this was a big break for the family, because WWII gas rationing was in effect and the school bus designation gave us a B sticker (more gas) rather that the usual A sticker for a single family. With very little money, we gradually and completely rebuilt the hot springs, running the pool and baths for the money to support the family and continue rebuilding. My Roche grandparents lived and worked there as well. The effort was always for a family business.” -Dr. George Roche III (1935-2006)
In 1960, my grandparents sold the property to Dennis Osborn, who later married their daughter, Peggy. While my grandparents focused on maintaining the bath house, pool, and pit baths for day use, Uncle Dennis and Aunt Peggy expanded the property, adding an additional pool and lodging for overnight guests. My big brother, George, spent much of his childhood here:
“The Hot Springs is a beautiful place, situated in a valley between Mt. Princeton and Mt. Antero. Chalk Creek runs next to the warm water swimming pool that is connected to the lodge. I remember the sound of the creek flowing towards the Arkansas River and the wind blowing through the pinion pines on summer afternoons. The Hot Springs was a base for adventures up the neighboring mountains and the old abandoned narrow gauge railroad grade that winds its way up through those towns and silver mines to Alpine Pass on the Continental Divide. The Hot Springs is where I learned to swim, fly fish, hike, and camp. It is one of those rare and memorable places that you occasionally encounter during a lifetime.” -George Roche IV
In the early 1970s, my parents moved to Michigan, but the family kept coming home to the Hot Springs. On one visit in the early 80s, the families gathered where my sister, Muriel, and I enjoyed many adventures with our cousins. I remember breakfasts of fresh rainbow trout and scrambled eggs in the living quarters above the historic bath house, scenic mountain adventures on horseback, viewing the clearest, star-filled skies, and later being gently nudged to sleep by the sounds of Chalk Creek. I learned to swim in those hot springs.
The Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort is now a world class vacation destination, entertaining visitors from around the world. We enjoyed several days in a log cabin located on the 440 acre property, exploring the six pools, daily fitness classes, spa, and many other amenities. The natural rock hot tubs built into the creek were the ideal spot to soak in the perfect blend of frigid waters from Chalk Creek mixed with the natural hot springs. Some also enjoyed hiking the narrow gauge railroad trail and fishing adventures along Chalk Creek Gulch where my husband and son quickly limited each day on rainbow trout.
The conclusion to my father’s historical pamphlet still seems relevant today: “Much has changed since we began our story…But to those people who remember…the people and events which accomplished what is now passed will always live on.” I’m proud to have a connection to this lovely place that has gifted so many memories and adventures for generations.
** “The lodge” refers to the living quarters located above what is now the historic bath house.
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